Sydney’s Double Bay is serving up more drama than an episode of MasterChef as a feud simmers between two hospitality heavyweights.
Celebrity restaurateur Neil Perry had barely scraped the last dim sum off the floor of his failed Chinese eatery Song Bird before unveiling Gran Torino – a two-level Italian restaurant in the same location.
The new venture promises to serve a selection of antipasti, fresh pasta and Italian desserts – a mouth-watering prospect for most, but not everyone is hungry for it.
One who isn’t is Perry’s neighbour Eddie Levy, owner of Matteo, the long-running Italian institution just across the road.
Before diners could even get a taste of the prosciutto and buffalo mozzarella at Gran Torino, Levy had made his thoughts about the venture abundantly clear.
In a comment since deleted from Gran Torino’s Instagram – but widely circulated in hospitality circles – he wrote: ‘Hey guys!! Hello from the little local Italian right across the road that’s been here for nearly 10 years now!!’
A feud is sizzling between two of Sydney’s hottest chefs following the launch of an Italian restaurant in ritzy Double Bay. (Pictured: Neil Perry, left, and Eddie Levy, right)
Levy, who opened Matteo in 2017, couldn’t resist taking potshots at Perry’s habit of shuttering venues, then reopening new ones in the same spot.
‘Hopefully [Gran Torino] goes better than Rosetta, Jade Temple, Song Bird etc etc. Otherwise you guys can always try Mexican next – heard that could work… let us know if we can assist you any further.’
Perry’s beloved Italian restaurant Rosetta closed in May 2024 after 12 years in business amid large-scale redevelopments at Crown Melbourne, where it was once located.
Jade Temple, Perry’s Cantonese (later pan-Asian) fine-dining restaurant, shuttered in 2018, exactly a year on from its grand opening, after a menu overhaul was unable to save it.
Similarly, Song Bird, once an ambitious three-level Chinese mega-restaurant, served its final wonton on August 3, almost a year after it opened.
The restaurant’s downfall was attributed to struggles with overscale – Perry admitted he ‘missed the mark’ with the three-level layout – as well as a rushed opening, staffing issues and equipment failures.
Despite these setbacks, Perry remains one of Australia’s most celebrated and successful restaurateurs, with an empire that has included Rockpool, Spice Temple and, of course, Australia’s top steak restaurant, Margaret.
‘Bravo!! Good luck,’ Levy concluded his snarky comment, which has since been removed – either by Levy himself or the Gran Torino account admin.
Levy also responded to another post about Gran Torino by sharing a GIF of Clint Eastwood looking unimpressed.
Perry’s new venture, Gran Torino, was met with hostility from Matteo’s owner, Eddie Levy
Perry (pictured with wife Samantha) is no stranger to Double Bay – he also owns Margaret and the wine bar Next Door
Levy (pictured with girlfriend Kimmy Smalls) has further expanded his presence in Double Bay as the co-owner of Japanese restaurant Tanuki
The competition between Matteo and Gran Torino won’t be simmering down anytime soon. Both venues offer similar menus comprising antipasti, handmade pasta, meat and seafood
Matteo is regarded as one of Double Bay’s trendiest trattorias thanks to its relaxed atmosphere and authentic Italian menu.
The rivalry isn’t likely to simmer down soon, especially as both venues serve similar menus – think antipasti, handmade pasta, hearty mains and decadent desserts.
Perry – a guest judge on MasterChef – is no stranger to Double Bay, of course.
He also owns the suburb’s trendy Margaret restaurant and wine bar Next Door – two venues he’s managed to keep running despite other ambitious projects folding.
Levy has also established himself in Double Bay as co-owner of the Japanese favourite Tanuki.
Tanuki made headlines earlier this year when an influencer customer hurled a table lamp at her ex-boyfriend’s head after seeing him dining out with his new partner.
